Feria Internacional de Joyería de Vicenza 19 – 24 Enero 2013

Feria Internacional de Joyería de Vicenza   19 – 24 Enero 2013

 

Hola amigos, he tenido el privilegio de poder asistir a la última edición de la Feria de Joyería Internacional de Vicenza de hace dos semanas.

Tengo que destacar el gran número de profesionales del sector de la joyería en todos sus campos, que allí se congregaron. Destaco además la gran diversidad de tendencias, y nuevos aires en el sector de la joyería. En unos casos acertados bajo mi criterio y en otros casos, pienso que con poca proyección.

Puedo definir esta feria como rica, rica en variedad de ideas y rica en diversidad de composiciones y elementos. Pude apreciar tendencias de muchos tipos, como tailandeses, turcos, chinos, italianos, franceses y españoles, entre otros.

Lo más característico de esta Feria para mí, es la predominante notoriedad de las gemas de color  en tamaños grandes para joyas tipo fantasía. Con mezcla de colores muy chillones y rompiendo combinaciones armoniosas y utilizadas frecuentemente en piezas de joyería clásica. La gran utilización de corindones, tanto rubíes como zafiros, así como berilos, todos ellos de grandes tamaños, tallas irregulares, con formas desiguales y en muchas ocasiones rodeados de diamantes negros, zafiros en talla brillante, granates verdes tsavoritas, o topacios amarillos.  En definitiva una gran explosión de color, con mezclas sin límites.

Gemas Sharma

Aprecio en líneas generales, un aumento de montaje de gemas de color de segundo orden, tales como topacios, ágatas, jades, aguamarinas, ónix, cuarzos, etc.

Además, desde el punto de vista de los metales empleados, actualmente podemos encontrar en joyería un elenco de montaje de joyas en varios tipos de oro. Oro blanco, amarillo y sobre todo el más abundante, de nuevo, el oro rosa. A todo ello le sumamos una excesiva utilización del uso de los baños empleados, con tonos marrones, rosados, grisáceos, negros,… debido al gran avance de la galvanoplastia, con los alemanes a la cabeza en esta técnica, desde hace muchos años.

Para explicarlo de otro modo, se está empezando a modernizar mucho la joyería, convirtiéndose en moda, que por otro lado ya iba siendo hora. Se están experimentando mezclas y prácticas muy transgresoras. Se mezclan diferentes tipos de metales y componentes de una manera menos tímida.

Sin lugar a dudas, frente a esa explosión de modernidad y colores, y combinaciones novedosas pude apreciar lo estático, lo opuesto, que no por ello es menos importante, y me refiero a las piezas y el hacer, de las joyas clásicas de siempre, con elementos importantes y piezas clásicas de joyería que nunca pasan de moda. Siguen teniendo su público aún en estos tiempos y creo que nunca cesará. Pero bien es cierto que cada vez este porcentaje esta aminorando su cifra frente a las nuevas tendencias y modas.

Por cierto, merece la pena destacar, la belleza de la ciudad de Vicenza, un ambiente maravilloso, y sabor en sus calles difícil de describir, muy recomendable su visita, junto con Verona al norte. Como gran parte de Italia, un “museo” al aire libre.

Paco Blasco

Colgante corazón esmerlada Colombia y dúo sortijas de la firma Pasquale Bruni

 

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